2016年8月2日

【坦桑尼亞/吉力馬札羅山】爬吉力馬札羅山,請小心這間公司 Something about the Mt. Kilimanjaro trekking: Choose the trekking company as serious as you can if you are considering these two companies, "Tanzania Adventures" or "Tanzania Magic Tours"

去非洲時,也去了趟吉力馬札羅山爬山,整趟行程最終是安全地結束了,只是其中有許多不完美的地方,尤其這趟找的旅行社,有相當大的問題。為了避免以後有人在找上他們家,不得不寫篇勸告文。如果想選擇他們,請看完後好好考慮清楚。

附註:這家公司也有接Safari 的行程,雖然在tripadvisor 也有些人推薦他們的Safari,但個人不是很建議,因為Trekking的過程中,發生了很多事情,讓我們深深覺得這個老闆與主嚮導都有問題,比起來倒是比較建議找我們的那家Safari 公司(我們Safari 的公司是找肯亞的,價錢很OK、司機也很準時,一路上調整行程也算順利)。

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Company name: "Tanzania Adventures" or "Tanzania Magic Tours"

Boss: 
Alfa Mniko, CEO & Tour Coordinator

P.O. Box 11836
Arusha-Tanzania
Cell Phone: +255 762 257 557 / +255 788 675 009
Emails:
info@tanzaniaadventures.com
info@tanzaniamagictours.com
Websites:
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附註:因為叫XXX Tanzania Adventures的公司實在太多了,可以比對電話跟老闆名字或e-mail。
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我們原本的行程:
Marangu Route
D0:
Shuttle from Nairobi to Moshi

D1:
Marangu Gate (1860m) - Mandara hut (2715m)

D2:
Mandara hut (2715m) - Horombo hut (3705m)

D3: 高度適應天Acclimatization day
Hike Horombo Hut (3705m) to Zebra Rocks (3,980m) to Horombo Hut (3705m)

D4:
Horombo hut (3705m) - Kibo hut (4730m)

D5:
Kibo hut (4730m) - Gilman's point (5680m) - Uhuru Peak (5895m) - Horombo hut (3705m)

D6:
Horombo hut (3705m) - Marangu Gate (1860m)



原本我們的爬山行程是總共六天,其中第三天是高度適應天,後來在登山的過程中,Guide說我們有能力直接爬Mt. Kilimanjaro,不需要多一天高度適應,建議我們刪掉一天。但因為一開始討論費用的問題時,Guide說若我們選擇提早一天下山,原本第六天trekking的錢不會退、第五天下山後的住宿跟三餐也都得自己付,於是大家討論的結果是,不要提早一天下山,畢竟山下住宿也不便宜,況且我們已經付了六天的Trekking fee了。於是選擇調整行程,變成沒有高度適應天,直接爬完Mt. Kilimanjaro後,到Horombo Huts住(跟原本一樣),但最後一天則是改到Mandara Huts住第五晚(也就是離登山口最近的那間山屋)。這樣結局還是六天下山,但最後一天可以輕鬆一點、大約只需爬兩小時就能回到登山口。當時Guide還保證這樣調整沒問題、Mandara Huts絕對有山屋可以讓我們住。

結果當我們爬完Mt. Kilimanjaro到Horombo Huts後,Guide突然跟我們說明天的Mandara Huts沒房間了,我們隔天只能直接下山。這其實是很難令人置信的,因為爬Mt. Kilimanjaro是有人數管控的,況且我們前一天突然改成Horombo Huts都沒問題了,又更何況是Mandara Huts(因為這間通常只有上山時會住這裡、下山時不會住,所以照理說應該會很空)。討論了很久沒有結論,結果Guide打電話給老闆詢問過後,確認第五天下山的住宿跟晚餐會幫我們付。於是我們確定又改行程、決定第五天直接下山。

下山後回到飯店,老闆Alfa出現了。老闆當場竟然又換了一套說法....跟我們說:住宿的錢我們必須每個人負擔20USD、他會付剩下的(13USD)。果然完全又跟山上時講得不一樣,結果有人當場發火說在山上時不是這樣講的!結果老闆跟Guide又討論,說是Guide沒聽清楚,由他退一步,改成住宿會幫我們付、但晚餐我們得自己付。(總之就是要我們拿出錢來自付部分...)

跟這家旅行社討論的過程中,真的很不舒服,只要沒有白紙黑字寫下的東西,很容易被一變再變,等於一直被耍。另外還有很多零零碎碎的問題,真是講也講不完。

#1 說的話沒有信用

出發前老闆Alfa跟我們說國家公園那邊公告七月要增收18%的費用,於是我們就請老闆提供細節,想知道到底是哪一塊費用要多收18%,上山前老闆跟我們稍微口頭列一下:
>國家公園入園費Conservation fee of the national park 70 USD x 6
>山屋費用the mount hut fee 60 USD x 6
>....(還有些零零散散的)
當時就覺得很奇怪,我們的行程是6天,為什麼山屋也收6天(畢竟只有5晚),請他提供一張單子、列出細節給我們參考,他當時也說沒問題,下山後會提供給我們。結果下山後也說沒問題、回到旅館後也說沒問題、搭車回奈洛比的路上,又問他,還是說沒問題,一直到我們回到台灣了,他就突然寫信說:國家公園的那張收據單子是給公司的,不是給登山客的,我們沒有資格跟他要去看.....= = 那從頭到尾說的沒問題是怎樣???

只能說我們當初太相信這間公司了,所以一開始就將全部金額都付清,導致最後在談這些住宿或三餐、收據之類時,已經沒有籌碼可以跟對方談了,等於只能接受對方擺布,另外也是太不積極、沒一開始就去要收據細節前就先付款。

#2 不誠實

最後一天下山後,我們在等國家公園發給我們的登頂證書,結果有人意外地在裝證書的信封內發現了一張國家公園的繳費收據,裡面列出的細節,
>國家公園入園費Conservation fee of the national park 70 USD x 5
>山屋費用the mount hut fee 60 USD x 4
>.....
造成我們意外的發現這家公司的大謊,因為他們列的山屋費用真的有問題(改成5天行程後,山屋的確只收4晚費用,也就是說本來的6天行程應該只有5晚山屋費用才對、但老闆跟我們講要收6晚,包含那18%增收費用),而且他們說上山前已經支付給國家公園了(這也是假的、是下山後才付款,這樣看起來,我們後來更動最後一天去住Mandara Huts、卻住不成功,也是有人從中搞鬼,因為只要提早一天下山,旅行社就可少付一天入園費跟住宿費。)。重點是收據裡面也沒有列出所謂的18%增收費用。這樣算下來,估計老闆從我們每個人身上,大概多賺到 (70USD + 60USD x 2) x1.18 = 224USD....,頗恐怖的金額。

當天晚餐在發證書時,老闆發現我們看到收據、還討論起其中的細節時,急忙澄清的說那不是我們的收據、我們不能拍照。幸好有人事先拍了一張,事後確認,那張收據上的登山起登時間跟我們起登時間差不多(因為我們實在太晚開始起登了,幾乎沒遇到甚麼隊伍),而且登山人數也一樣,回到登山口時間也一樣、還跟我們的證書放在一起。再加上是同一家旅行社,鬼都不相信那收據不是我們的吧....。

#3 沒準時過

這家公司約好的時間,從來沒有準時過。
六天的登山行程,還請老闆幫忙安排前一天奈洛比到Moshi的接駁,因為我們前幾天已經在奈洛比待過一陣子,知道塞車會很嚴重,再加上我們的旅館不好找,於是提醒老闆一定要叫接駁車早點出發,結果約好早上6:30來接、大概到9:30才來吧...而且是原本負責接的車子不知道去哪了(我們請保全幫我們打電話問,好幾次都說快到了、快到了),來接的是另一台車,重點是還想跟我們收奇奇怪怪的費用....Orz。在台灣出發前,我們都已經跟老闆Alfa討論過,這接駁的錢我們會跟Trekking fee一起付給他,結果接駁車一來,又要東要西的錢,導致我們在這天早上搭上車的過程中就已經花了許多時間在跟司機討論誰該付錢的事情,本來應該下午就該到達Moshi的,結果真正到達的時間是晚餐時間....。本來想D0早點到飯店休息的夢想也毀了。

另外登山開始的第一天也是,前一天Guide跟我們說9:00要準時離開旅館,結果我們拖到大約快11:00才離開旅館,到了國家公園後又一直不知道在摸什麼,porter 秤行李重量時也沒有讓我們在場,使得我們無法確認到底這次行程應該要有幾個porter才不會太多這件事情,也弄得最後我們起登時間是下午約2點半....第一天只好每個人走得很趕的速度才能不摸黑走到山屋。

第二天早上主嚮導問我們有沒有什麼意見,還好有人很嚴肅地跟他們說每天遲到出發的問題太嚴重、我們行程到現在從來就沒有準時過,請他們解決這個問題。從這次回應之後,行程才開始變得正常....(怕小費會因為服務不佳而變少...?),不然的話,每天這樣拖下去,不知道是要幾點才能到達山屋。

#4  詭異的角色分配與小費制度

最後一天給小費時,主嚮導說全部小費都要交由他處理,由他分配給其他人。老實說,我們一群人還蠻不相信這位嚮導的(因為健行過程中,只要是分給他吃的東西,就都沒看過他分享給其他嚮導)。但當場其他嚮導也都沒說什麼,我們也只能照做。結果,這位主嚮導就在我們面前算起錢來了,然後直接跟我們說:小費給的不夠......。然後又突然說什麼角色的小費我們沒有給.....(因為一個人可以擔任兩三種角色,擔任兩三種角色的人可得到兩三份小費,但誰擔任了什麼角色,是由他說了算,因為實際情形我們無法看到)。

整個就是一種很詭異的狀況。如果是必須付的項目,那應該叫做費用,但小費不是應該是由顧客依照服務來決定金額嗎?結果他竟然跟我們講了一個最低金額,要我們補足那個金額....。雖然可以理解也許他是為那些porter、cook爭取到多一點權利(小費),但.....我們與他之間的信任,似乎無法讓我們相信他有這麼好心的為別人著想.... XD

結論>
真的完全不建議找這間公司,還有這個主嚮導啊。這個主嚮導也有很多誇張的地方,實在是講也講不完....XD,但其實四位嚮導中,其他有兩位副嚮導是真的人不錯、也很負責任、也不會亂凹我們東西或小費,個人建議可以私下聯繫他們(可私訊要聯絡資訊)、跟別的旅行社規劃Trekking trip,因為看起來嚮導也是有點類似靠行的感覺(可自己接團)。

結局只能說這間公司雖然愛錢,可是還好沒忽略我們的安全,不然在五千多公尺的地方爬山,找一個很不保險的旅行社,實在非常危險...。

順便提醒一下大家,在國外找這些旅行社,切記行程中任何討論的事項、調整的事項,一定要清楚明白的白紙黑字寫下來、要求簽名,沒寫下來的東西,隨時都有可能被人變動、不被承認,對自己的很沒有保障,當然如果可以,最好是別在行程一開始就付清所有費用,否則在這樣的情況下,消費者是很弱勢的。(但真的很難控制最後一點,因為真的有些旅行社會要求行程開始時就要全額付清....,所以只能用白紙黑字來保障自己了。)


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English Version
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The company is not honest.
Totally NOT RECOMMEND to contact with them for safari and Mt. Kilimanjaro climbing.

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Company name: "Tanzania Adventures" or "Tanzania Magic Tours"

Boss: 
Alfa Mniko, CEO & Tour Coordinator

P.O. Box 11836
Arusha-Tanzania
Cell Phone: +255 762 257 557 / +255 788 675 009
Emails:
info@tanzaniaadventures.com
info@tanzaniamagictours.com
Websites:
www.tanzaniaadventures.com
www.tanzaniamagictours.com
=====================================
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Before we start to climb the Mt. Kilimanjaro, we request a 6 days trip that including one day high altitude acclimatization day on the third day.
At the night of the second day, our guide talks with us.  He says we all have the capability to climb the Mt. Kilimanjaro and don't need additional acclimatization day.  He means we only need to spend 5 days to climb, can be back to trailhead on 5th day but we will need to pay the accommodation/dinner fee for the night of 5th/6th day by ourselves. (Originally, the fees are all included in our trip.)
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This is the first time discussion (on 2nd day). 
We ask a question about the charge change (from 6 days trip to 5 day trip).  They say it's not refundable because they already pay for the national park.  So finally, we don't agree to change the trip days and just agree to remove the acclimatization day and change the mount hut to Mandara hut that we can stay on 5th day's night, so that we can be back to the trailhead earlier on 6th day.  The guide answers us "no problem" and he will be responsible for coordinating the mount hut.
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The second time discussion (on 3rd day).
We all already finish to climb the Mt. Kilimanjaro and return to the Horombo Huts.  And the guide says to us again, "There is no room for us on Mandara hut tomorrow", "we need to back to the trailhead on 5th day".  The company still want us to finish our trip in 5 days and pay for accommodation/dinner fee of 5th day by ourselves.  We are not satisfied with the result because the charge of 6 days trip already includes these fees.  After the phone call between the guide and Alfa (the company boss), the guide says Alfa agrees to pay for our accommodation/dinner of 5th day.  Because we believe him, we didn't write down anything.  It's just a verbal commitment.
.
But everything changed after we go back to the trailhead.  They say we should pay the partial fee for our accommodation/dinner.  We always can't get consistent answer from the company and guide what ever in the begin or in the end of the trip.
.
1. not a trustable company
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Before we start the trekking trip, we ask for the detail cost information because Alfa says the national park request us to pay additional charge (18% x all needed cost).  Alfa says to us 
"Conservation fee of the national park 70 USD x 6 and the mount hut fee 60 USD x 6..." (not write down)  

It is strange because in fact the mount hut should be 5 days(nights) only.  We request Alfa to provide a list(paper) to us and he still says no problem, he will give us one after we return.  But he doesn't, even after we come back to our country.  He sends a mail to said (after we leave from the Africa), "the receipt from the national park is for the trekking company, not for tourism, we shouldn't request to see it."
I don't understand why he always says no problem to provide since we request the information many times, but says he is not willing to provide after we leave from Africa.  This is not a trustable company.
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2. not a honest company
.
After finish our trekking trip and wait for the climbing certificate, we find the receipt (put in the same envelope with our certificate).  It shows the company pays  to the national park after we go back to the trailhead, and the list shows only for 5 days climbing trip and the mount hunt is 60 USD x 4.  It totally shows the information from #1 is not correct (for 6 days trip, the mount hut fee shouldn't 60USD x 6.  It should be 60 USD x 5).  Of course,  including the additional charge 18%.  Alfa says that's not our receipt, we shouldn't take the picture of the receipt.  But in fact, the receipt is put with our certificates and the start trekking time and total people number that list on the receipt are same as our group's.  It totally demonstrates the company is not honest.
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3. It seems like the company doesn't know "what is on time".
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Before our 6 days trip, we request the company to provide the shuttle that helps to take us from Nairobi to Moshi.  We notify the company about the traffic jam and our hotel is also hard to find its location.  It's better to take us earlier.  We arrange the shuttle to take us at 6:30 A.M., but in fact the shuttle take us after 9:30 A.M..  This is the first time delay.
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After we arrive our hotel, our guide said to us, we will leave our hotel on 9:00 A.M. tomorrow (first trekking day).  But in fact, we leave our hotel around 11:00 A.M. and start trekking around 14:30 P.M..   
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Nothing is on time.
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